Saturday, August 15, 2009

If ya didn't know......

My blog has moved to If ya type in it should just redirect ya straight to it!!!

Hope ya been Likin it!!!!

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

That 303 Rush Never Stops!! Peps Keep coming!!

What up!!!
Kirsten leaves today and Dave Tucker comes in! And on the 30th my friends Rami, Eric, and Rodney get to town!! PERFECT!!! DONDE!! GOLDEN!!!

The last couple days have been really good!
Earlier this week, Jon and I went out one evening, to try the Hard Boiled variation, Replacement Killers(V11). We quickly did all the moves, but at 8:30pm it was still hot as hell!! No send...

The Replacement Killers from Charles Lee Payne on Vimeo.

The next day Voges and I tried to do a late afternoon session at Evans, but it was still pretty warm. I gave Super Gui one go and just called it quits, while Voges greased off the end of Clear Blue Skies(V12) for a bit. Next, I went over to Seurat(V8), taking forever to figure out the beta. After a brief rain storm and some food, I put it together. Next, we went to Child Stars(V12), and Voges sent quickly as it was getting dark. OMG IT'S HOT!! I think it's time to stick to The Park until September!!!

Speakin of The Park:
Yesterday, Voges, his girlfriend, Jo Beth, and I met up with Jimmy and Jon Gass at the Park...

Some Highlights, In Order Of Occurance, To An All Out Epic Day:
-I flashed Autobot Low(V9), which is actually pretty damn fun!!
-I did Handicapps(V9) second go.
-I did Deep Puddle Dynamics(V9) second go.
-Voges tried Freshly Squeezed(V12) but failed and peed himself in the process.
-Jon Gass, Jimmy, and I checked out Dead Raccoon(V11)...INCREDIBLE!!.. Voges stayed at Freshly Squeezed and had story time with his girlfriend.
-We hiked up to WildCat(V12).
-Jimmy realized he left his camera at Freshly Squeezed.
-Jimmy did WildCat(V12).
-I figured out a way to make the toe hook work for the second move.
-Jon Gass did 1000 Shades of Green(V9).
-I gave WildCat(V12) my last go...Then it started to rain for an hour..
-Voges hiked back to the car, in the pouring rain.

Voges pissed from the rain.

-The rain stopped...
-It felt about 20 degrees colder.
-We dried the holds.
-I tried one more time, but didn't send.
-We hiked out in the dark...No headlamps, Jimmy got hypothermia in his feet because all he brought to CO was flip flops, we went looking for Jimmy's camera, didn't find it, prayed that Voges grabbed it, and kept hiking..
-We got to the parking lot, to find Voges curled up next to a Grizzly, freezing cold. His first words to me were, "Did you send?" I said, "No, but great new beta!!" Voges: "I set here for three hours and you didn't send!" HAHAHA!!!
-Voges gave us Jimmy's camera.
-We drove home.
-Every store was closed.
-Voges starved until we got home.

What a day...

Monday, June 22, 2009

Money Like The Damn Wells Fargo!!

I've been obsessin over that Gorilla Zoe...
Check it!

Other than that, I haven't been up to much....
I had a great week chillin with Ina. Did lots of fun, fun things!!
New Wallet, Pearl Street, New Belt, still rockin the pink one though, Almost did Wildcat(V12), Profesh Glesade Sesh, did Hardboiled(V11)....Good times.

Off to Evans..Super Gui(V11)

BTW..Carlo Traversi did the second ascent of Nalle Hukkataival's Sunseeker(V13) yesterday.
His Response Via 8a:
2nd Ascent. 21 moves. Fell off the last move about an hour before Nalle did it. Heartbreaker. Could be one of the best boulder problems in the world. 20-25 feet with a snow landing (for now). Tall, Proud, Pure, Technical, Powerful, and Balancy. FULL PACKAGE. Footage on Deadpoint this week.

Sick Work Playa!

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Kirsten Wedde Listen's to Dope Trackzzz!!!

Get it suckas!!
The other day some Fun Ladies got into town!
Can't nobody seem to stay away from that 303 Rush!!!
They go by Kirsten, better known as K Dub or Special K, and Ina, better known as Eeeenn or Albanian Hotness!!

Chillin out at Clear Creak.JG photo.....

They listen to good music:

Like rock climbing and don't mind an approach!!!!

J Voges pic.

And like posin at the Flatirons

Bet you thought it was Sarah Palin. JG photo.

Can't ask for much more!! They're here for a week.....
Flyin by already...
Wish it were longer!!!

I'm currently listening to that Gorilla Zoe- "I am Atlatla"

That F-City Life!!!

Monday, June 15, 2009

Its Gettin Hot In The 303!!

Holy Crap!!!
Where to start?!?!

I have officially been in Boulder, livin the dream, for two weeks now!
Jon, Voges and I have been busy, pluckin away some Gems!!

Lemme see...

Thursday, the night before Pittsburgh sent Detroit cryin, GO PENS!!!, Voges and I went out for a short session on Hardboiled(V11)...Voges sent pretty quickly and I made DONDE!! amounts of progress, dialing the second move in..I'll link it all next trip for sure!!! After that and for pretty much the rest of the morning and early afternoon, Voges and I cleaned the house, while our Mr. Breadwinner, Jon, slayed away at work...Then we did some laundry!! So Exciting!!!

Next Time!! B. Voges pic.

Friday, We decided to hike up to the Park and test our skills at WildCat(V12).
We got to Wildcat(V12) around 1pm, warmed up and starting playing on the moves....
Jon had gotten very close to doing it last season, but one more school year in Boone, left him just short of completion...
He quickly relearned his beta and Voges followed with him..Then a forced one hour rest came along, on account of rain..
An hour later, some food, a little bit of spooning, and some mostly dry holds, Jon and Voges fired it off!!
Here's a clip of Jon sending, with an outro of me showing off my Pro Glacading Ability!!

Wildcat(V12) Vimeo

I managed to work out all the moves..
To add, I did 1000 shades of green(V9)..

Yesterday, We all went to Evans and met up friends Jamie Emerson, Ryan Olson, Jon Gass, and James Webb! It was a good ole time!!
Some highlights:
Jon, Jimmy, and Voges did The Hume Problem(V9) second go.
Jon did Mental Pollution(V10).
Voges and Jimmy did Ground Control(V12).
I finished some old beef with Bierstadt(V10), firing it off first go!
Felt just a little easier than it did three years ago...

Today, the day that Kobe guarenteed himself a spot in the Hall of Fame, Jon, Max and I went back to The Park.
We started off warming up on the classic Autobot(V4). Next, we got our highball on at the Skyscraper(V5). After that, I did Tommy's Arete(V7) and we headed to Upper Chaos to check out Blood Money(V12). I just hung out, while Max and Jon figured out the moves....
Then it was up to Wildcat!! I made some nice progress, doing it in two sections. I gave it one go from the start, falling trying to set up for the last section of moves, making the long stretch with my right leg, out to the long, diagonal ledge...5 days on though!! It'll go for sure next trip!!!

Time to go B-Ball it up!!

Thursday, June 11, 2009

New Gym in Denver

There is a new gym in Denver...Its called the Denver Bouldering Club..Check it out! Open 24 hours a day, and everyone's a setter!! You make it what you want it to be! Pretty Sick!!

Jon had to go out there to do a Shoe Demo for La Sportiva and I decided to tag along.
It was good time...
Fresh new lines and a good crowd of people to get syked with!!
I also got to hangout with some old Raleigh Folks, Kevin Brown and Dave Cooke, which brought back some memories..

Definately go check it out if you're ever in the area!!


Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Project Holds Commercial: Monthly Fix

Jordan Shipman from LouderThan11 has just together a nice video for Project Holds...
Jordan is really bringing some new creativity to the climbing world!!
Can't say I've ever seen holds jump right out of the box!!
Check it out:

Project Holds: Monthly Fix from Jordan Shipman on Vimeo.

Those slopers you see popping out of the box, I was fortunate enough to try them out at the TRC a few weeks ago...They're pretty darn tight!! Perfect for a technical face climb or a steep arete. Positive, yet nearly impossible if your feet pop off...One of my favorite series yet!!
Looking forward to seeing future new shapes Chuck!!